Thursday, May 26, 2016

Montrose, May 25, 2016

I know what you’re thinking: “Dale, why the desert?  Why does it always have to be the desert?  Don’t you ever go anyplace else?  It’s all rocks and lizards, arroyos and tumbleweeds.  What’s the deal, didn’t your mother breast feed you as an infant?”

Well the answer to the last question is: I don’t remember.  But it doesn’t always have to be the desert.  I can deal with another geoclimatological zone (hooray, I made up another word).  I’ll show you that I can be flexible; starting right now.

Wednesday morning it was up, shower and out the door by 0800 hrs (that’s eight o’clock in the morning for you civilian types).  A quick stop for gas and then about ten minutes of driving around Cortez looking for my highway (yes, I got lost again!) out of town.  It was about a block away from my motel, but in the opposite direction from the gas station.

I chose to take CO-145 on this, the last leg of my outward journey.  It is one of two routes to Montrose. The other, US-550, is quite the white knuckler, but more about that on the return trip (this is known as a tease in the advertising game), CO-145 might as well be named the Dolores Highway as it runs through Dolores County, through the town of Dolores, along the Dolores River.  Local lore is that this Dolores chick really got around.




If you ever wondered where San Diego's water comes from, well it starts right up there.


The drive needs little descriptive language as the photographs below serve well to tell the story.  This (compared to say, US-550) is an easy drive for an old hand and not so terribly challenging that a less experienced mountain driver wouldn’t be able to negotiate it.  It has some significant elevation changes but the road is in good repair with no intimidating no-shoulder drop-offs to the side, hairpin turns or switchbacks.  And this is important because you will want to be able to take in the scenery as it goes by.






GPS Elevation at Lizard Head Pass

The elevation reaches over 10,000 feet at its apex.  At ten o’clock in the morning (that’s 1000 hrs to you mil types) the temperature at Lizard Head Pass was 47o F… I was wearing cargo shorts and a polo shirt, in case you noticed the camera shake.  The highway runs through the town of Rico (shown below), past the side route to Telluride and into Placerville where I turned north onto CO-62.  It is a short drive to reach Ridgeway, the town where the John Wayne version of True Grit was filmed.  A funny aside:  When I was a teenager and saw the movie True Grit, I noted to myself and anyone who would listen, “I’ve been to Oklahoma (the setting for the story), and that is not Oklahoma.” You can’t get many passed me.

Rico, CO


Rico graveyard, right by the side of the highway


The next turn is onto US-550 which has been drained of its venom by this time.  It is a leisurely drive through the farmland of Montrose County into the city itself.   I will not boar you with the tedium of family activities.


I will begin my trip home in a couple of weeks, so stay tuned.  If anything of note happens in the meantime (and if you really knew me well you would know how high the probability runs), I will write you from jail. 

Tuesday, May 24, 2016

May 24, 2016 Montrose

I left St. George, Utah with little fanfare and no breakfast to charge into Indian Country, i.e., Navajoland.  My first waypoint was Hurricane, Utah.  It has changed significantly since I was last there (circa 1997).  The heretofore two-lane main street is now a five-lane boulevard and the once antiquated storefronts are new and shiny.  The town has expanded to the west with nationally recognized retailers, mostly fast food outlets. Hurricane continues to exist as a jump off point for the National Park recreation offers in the area; Zion, Bryce, Lake Powell, et al.  I am glad to see it is thriving.





From Hurricane, I proceeded along state highways 59 and 389 into Arizona and the little hamlet of Fredonia, Arizona.  I am convinced that Fredonia survives only to sell alcohol to persons of thirst preparing to travel into the National Park rich, but somewhat dry, Utah. I counted one gas station and three liquor stores among the four businesses in the town.  From Fredonia, the road turns north where in a matter of yards, you enter Kanab, Utah where you can buy the non-alcoholic provisions for your expedition. From Kanab, I had two choices to reach the day’s destination, Cortez, Colorado.



This gets confusing if you are not familiar with the area or if you do not have a map in your hand. Both options are numbered US-89.   I am not going to try to explain it verbally.  Let it suffice to say I took the leg that skirts the southern edge of the Escalante-staircase National Monument and it is spectacular.  For my money… well actually, it is fee free on US-89, it is the most impressive non-fee drive I have encountered.  Someday, it will be a destination; stay tuned.



This route eventually meanders to Page, Arizona; launching point for Lake Powell.  The water level in the lake is depressingly low.  Too bad, there are few locales in the world as stunning as Lake Powell from water level.  I got lost in Page.  It’s a lot easier than you think.  But it is a small town and in driving about looking for the road out, I wandered into an old part of town known as the little hotel district.  It’s actually one street lined with utilitarian rental complexes that look as if they were built for workers during the construction of Glen Canyon Dam.  Now they seem to operate as hostels for thrifty world travelers.  What do you think, Tumbleweed?



Finding my way out of Page (it was even odds) I took AZ-98 to the southeast to meet up with US-160 running northeast along the southern extreme of Monument Valley and Kayenta, Arizona.  Again, these are scarcely traveled highways that offer incomparable visuals.  I never tire of the experience.





Eventually the route takes you into more familiar geology and through some really ugly desert as you pass four corners (if you are unfamiliar with this term, look it up) and into Colorado.  Cortez is the first city you encounter; it’s life blood is farming and tourist services for nearby Mesa Verde National Park.  I found the lone surviving Mexican restaurant and enjoyed a cheese enchilada and tamale.  While there were quainter motels, I chose a Travel Lodge:  The photo below explains it all.

San Juan Mountains from Cortez

 
Cortez is a city by definition


Monday, May 23, 2016

May 23, 2016 - Montrose

Well here I am tearing up the roads of America once again in search of…

I have no idea.  But so long as the objective remains undefined, I will never have to admit I have completed the pursuit.  If that makes perfect sense to you then you are reading the right blog.

This journey targets the city of Montrose, Colorado… eventually.  It is the home of my sole surviving aunt, Barbara Coster (nee Frank).  But I will spare you the family story.  What I do want to share with you is the experience of the road trip.  I am amazed at the number of people I have met who are dumb founded by the notion of packing up the car with no agenda (although this particular trip has the family element), no reservations and no firm return dates.  Some of my acquaintances recoil at the notion of life without room service and spas.  Others express great trepidation being lost in a wilderness of motels with no time-certain check in.

In answer to your query, “But Dale, you must be able to fly to Colorado.” I respond, have you been following the TSA performance stories in the news this week?  I don’t fly, and three-hour security lines are just one of a myriad of reasons.  Here’s another; have you ever been served Mexican cuisine as the (I hear, no longer included) in-flight meal?  And yet another:  On those occasions when I did fly (mostly business trips on someone else’s dime) I insisted on a window seat and I spent the entire flight looking at the earth pass by below, wishing I knew what I was missing down there.  And yes, by the time I arrived at my destination, my neck hurt.  I much prefer to be down there, looking at the country close up.

So this trip required a decision; which route to take.  There are two general options (although many variables present themselves within each), north or south.  On a whim, I decided to take the northern route out this time and the southern route back.  My path will take me north along I-15 to St. George, Utah then east along some interesting secondary highway(s) into Montrose.  Then when I return home, I will proceed south through the San Juan Mountains (Rockies) to Cortez, Colorado where I will redirect westward along trails associated with the Mother Road (Route 66) and home.

I know some of you think as I-15 is merely a dedicated express way to Las Vegas.  And for those travelers, it is all yours south of Fremont street.  But once you get past Vegas, one has the chance to encounter some interesting geographical and cultural treasures.  Just north of the Las Vegas metropolitan complex is a Nevada state park that borders lake Meade; Valley of Fire State Park.  As you may have guessed from the name, it is comprised red rocks.  If you didn’t, well, read a book… about anything.  I did not stop to visit on this excursion, but for those of you who might travel to Sin City in the future, schedule some time for a car trip to this remarkable landscape.  I offer you a google image as enticement.  It may just wet your whistle for a road trip, ‘cause there’s stuff like this all over the West.


Valley of Fire
Valley of Fire











About an hour north of Vegas is the last chance to gamble in a little town named Mesquite.  It is situated in the lower Virgin River Valley and I believe serves the non-LDS Utah residents who just can’t handle the trek into Lost Wages.  As the I-15 continues north it cuts across a small but impressive corner of Arizona known as The Virgin River Gorge.  The highway cuts right through this maze of geological wonder and it will take all your better judgment to keep from parking in the traffic lane to take pictures.  There is no shoulder, don’t try it.  The pictures I include here I got from Google images.

Virgin River Gorge


When the road reaches the top of the gorge you spill out into Utah.  The coral hued mesas are among the most dramatic to be seen in the West.  Ten minutes farther and you encounter the city of St. George, nestled in these same mesas.  When I travel alone (which I am on this occasion) I try to find quaint little motels from yesteryear that evoke memories of family trips of my youth.  Tonight I will be a guest of the Dixie Palm Motel.  They boast seventeen rooms, numbered 201 through 217.  The clerk does not know why and stopped looking for the second floor stairs some time ago.  The motel map in printed on a 3 x 21/2 inch piece of paper on which there is an admonishment to drop the room key in the box outside the office when one leaves, so the maids will know you are done.  Yes, the important part of that sentence is that they have keys, real brass keys.  If you don’t understand, you picked the wrong book, try again.


St. George, Utah

St. George, Utah
Dixie Palms Motel



Well, that’s it for today.  I’ll see what comes up tomorrow.





Friday, February 21, 2014

Anza-Borrego 2014

The Journey Begins

It would seem that if you are reading this you would recognize that I was successful in attaining my camping destination.  If not, let me state the obvious: one, you are too dumb to continue, go back to watching television; two, I was successful in reaching my camping destination.

My campground of choice is Palm Canyon Campground in the Anza-Borrego Desert State Park.  It was one of my first desert experiences dating back to my Boy Scout days.  Our troop never camped here; it is far too sophisticated a facility for that caliber of group.  We instead camped at Tamarisk Grove (also administered by the State Parks) but much more primitive in its amenities, at least back in 1967.  Whenever our troop camped at Tamarisk grove, the focus activity of the outing was a car trip to Palm Canyon.  And that feature is still the big draw to this location.  The canyon drains the mountains to the west.  There is a relatively easy hike of about one-and-a-half miles that takes the explorer to an oasis, complete with year-round pools and thick with palm trees, thus the name.

While still quite the attraction, a flash flood (I believe in 2000) resulted in some major damage to the grove.  The hike up the trail is now littered with fallen palm trees and the pools are smaller, shallower and somewhat more difficult to access because of boulders that were displaced by the rushing water.  The last time I took a stroll up the canyon was in November of 2012.  For me, it was a bit of a disappointment, but for a first timer, it is still quite impressive and I highly recommend it.

But the canyon is not my focus for this trip.  I am using the campground as a base of operations for day excursions into the desert.  There are many dirt tracks and jeep trails out there offering a perfect opportunity to exercise my Land Cruiser.  Tomorrow, if the road is open, I will attempt a sojourn up Rockhouse Road.  I don’t know if I’ll find the rock house, but even if I don’t it will be a new experience.  That brings us to today’s (Monday, February 17, 2014) events.

For those unfamiliar with my possession driven life, I own a GMC Sierra 3500 pickup truck on which I mount a Lance Camper.  I tow a 1975 Toyota Land Cruiser behind, adding up to be one heavy rig.  The truck and camper alone weigh in at about 11,000 lbs.  The Land Cruiser adds about another 3,500 lbs.  These technical details are necessary for you to understand the next paragraph.

To my everlasting shame, I wimped out today.  My original plan was to reach Palm Canyon Campground via Montezuma Grade (County Road S-22) which ends within a mile of the park gate.  I have driven the grade several times before, but never towing the Land Cruiser.  The trip takes only about one hour from my home in Valley Center.  But the more I looked at the map and remembered the combination of extreme elevation drop and hair-pin turns involved in making the descent to the desert floor, the less attractive that option became.

So, discretion being the better part of survival, I opted for the less challenging route along San Filipe Valley (S-2) to scissors crossing.  This adds about thirty or thirty-five minutes to the one-way trip.  But it saves about two gallons of sweat!

I arrived at the campground about two-thirty in the afternoon.  It has been a bit gusty which is not unusual, but as I write this, it is well after dark and still blowing a bit.  The campground is tucked into the folds of the mountains to the west, so dusk begins pretty early.  By four o’clock I was ready to start cooking dinner.  I know what you are thinking; God you’re getting old.  But my motivation is really more related to the ability to see what I am doing than my need for nourishment.  I just don’t like to cook in the dark; sorry.

On the menu tonight; filet mignon and creamed corn.  I know a lot of people who think meal preparation and consumption are the key elements to camping.  I feel just the opposite; the simpler the better.  And what is simpler that grilling a piece of steak and heating a can of vegetables?

The steak was superb.  I timed the cooking just right.  Now I know a lot of men who feel underfed if they haven’t downed a twenty ounce T-bone, but I prefer the tender appeal of the more diminutive cuts.  I would rather caress seven ounces of heaven with my tongue than chew through two-and-one-half pounds of gristle and fat.  The cream corn could have been warmer.  And there is room left the Girl Scout Cookies I bought when I did my trip grocery shopping.   

Dammit!

As advertised, I started the day with the intention of exploring Rockhouse Canyon.  But first, breakfast.  One cannot undertake the rigors of land navigation without sustenance.  So it was to be scrambled eggs with bacon and cheese.  I use pre-cooked bacon.  Now I know there are those purists out there that consider this heresy.  But the cost is more than offset, in my mind, by the time savings one enjoys by not having to clean the camp stove after frying bacon.  Bacon is messy.  Even handling precooked bacon renders ones hands greasy.  I had broken the bacon into small pieces and added to that three eggs in a frying pan.  Unfortunately as the bacon and eggs began to cook, I found that my fingers were too slick to open the package of shredded cheese.  Once eggs begin to cook, there is no time for fooling about.  The cheese would have to wait for another day.  Even without the cheese, breakfast was enjoyable.

After performing the day’s campsite maintenance, I was ready to go.  The author of the guide book I was using suggested that the road to Rockhouse Canyon progressed from easy to difficult and the explorer (that’s me, in case you’re wondering) would proceed as far as their fortitude and their vehicle would allow.

On the way out of the campground, I stopped at the visitor’s center to peruse the book and map offerings.  True to form, they saw me coming and were glad to collect the fifty dollars I spent to expand my library.  The volunteer who made the sale of the day had little of value to offer about Rockhouse Canyon, but I could swear I heard one of the paid staff mumbling something under her breath about rookies.  As the visitor center was full of park guests, I assumed she was making fun of somebody else.

The road to Rockhouse Canyon is about ten miles from Palm Canyon Camp Ground beginning at Borrego Salton Seaway (S-22).  The first part of the road travels through and Off-Highway recreation area.  Even though this was Tuesday morning, there were still several Mega RVs left from the three day weekend.  I would guess some of these rigs cost more than my house.  Although I was making my observations from a distance, it appeared these campers were fighting through the hangovers originated by the previous night’s revelry.  No one was flitting about on loud, bouncy machines.

As I proceeded out of the OHV area, I skirted Clark Dry Lake to my right.  With each passing mile, the road got uglier.  It was bedded with crushed rock which makes for uncomfortable motoring.  Then, finally, the road bed shifted to sand: Smooth, quiet sand.  For a couple miles this was a welcome change.  Then, about eight miles in, I noticed the sand was getting deeper and softer, and I was beginning to experience difficulty in both speed and steering control.  Finally, the fun came to an abrupt halt.  I was stuck, and that rhymes with (ya’ know), and that stands for trouble!

Now I’ve been stuck in sand before.  In fact, those experiences are what convinced me to invest in a four-wheel drive utility vehicle in the first place.  Now, here I was, in my sooped-up, over-blown, hybrid, earth-crushing machine and still facing the prospect of hiking out, finding someone with a vehicle that could winch me to firmer ground, and happily forking over cash for the privilege of being humiliated.  For several moments I considered just sitting there until I died from dehydration and let whatever lucky traveler discovering the Land Cruiser have her.  Then I said to myself (mostly ‘cause nobody I know is stupid to go on these excursions with me), “No! Not this time dammit!  I can beat this thing.”

I decided I was going to get that Toyota out of their like a man, or blow it up trying.  I put it in reverse and gave it hell.  It moved a foot or so and began to dig in.  I shifted into low; it moved forward a few inches before it bogged down.  Reverse.  Forward.  Digging in.  Punching out, each time working to gain a few degrees of rotation that would put me in the direction of home (metaphorically, I don’t really live in the Anza-Borrego desert).  After what seemed an hour of moving that beast inch by inch, listening for the soul crushing sound of mechanical failure, but what was probably no more than ten minutes, I got her on to better roadbed and away we went; leaving fate behind at a blistering pace of two miles per hour.  Thank you, Toyota. Thank, you Chevy.  And thank you, B.F. Goodrich.  By the time I got back to the paved road, I was ready for more.  Kind of shows you what makes me tick, don’t it?

Seeing it was only about 11:30, I decided to pull out my map and look for another opportunity to end my storied existence.  The location, Seventeen Palms, caught my eye.  Maybe it was my career in accounting, but anything stated with that much mathematical specificity must be audited.  The turn-off to Seventeen Palms was only about eight miles east from where I was; Tally-ho!

The trail begins at the Arroyo Salado (primitive) campground and proceeds 3.7 miles southeast where you encounter a short turnoff to the Seventeen Palms.  This was a well known travelers’ land mark and oasis during the nineteenth century.  Unfortunately, the presence of water is intermittent.  To aid fellow travelers, visitors to the oasis when she was wet would fill bottles with water and leave them for pilgrims who might encounter the site during a dry phase.  It also became an ad hoc “post office” where travelers would leave letters for others to carry if they happened to be headed in the right direction.  The current state of our drought being what it is, there was no water present during my visit.  I did not count the trees.  If the California State Park system is confident enough to mark the area with a sign proclaiming there are seventeen palms, then who am I to question?

I proceeded forward on Arroyo Salado until I encountered a sign indicating I had reached Five Palm Springs.  It was a bit of an uphill hike to achieve these palms, so I took a picture from the bottom of the hill instead.  I shifted my direction of travel westerly by way of Basin Wash and encountered, no you would never have guessed, not four, or three, or two palms, but Una Palma.  That’s right, for some reason, somebody named this lone palm tree, Una Palma; go figure.


Leaving Una Palma, I turned northwest on Basin Wash for about two miles then southwest on Cut Across Trail.  Cut Across Trail serves as a boundary line between Bureau of Land Management (BLM; Feds) to the south and State Parks jurisdiction to the north.  I was glad to encounter this split as BLM provides much more and meaningful signage than Gov. Brown’s crew.  Anyone who has practiced land navigation understands the importance of signage in reconciling ones position on earth with that of the map.

Cut Across Trail runs about six-and-one-half miles as it skirts the northwest corner of the Ocotillo Wells State Vehicular Recreation Area, a place to avoid on winter weekends.  As I crossed San Filipe Wash, the name of the route changed to Butte Canyon for no obvious reason.  I stopped at this intersection to orient myself.  When I was satisfied that I was still on the planet Earth, I reached down for my Ray-Bans, and they were gone!  How can one lose a pair of sunglasses in the space of three minutes when one had not moved?  I checked up, down, over and under to no avail.  It was if my shades had been the victim of an alien abduction.  Maybe some passing Grays (if you don’t know what “Grays” are, you need to watch more “Big Bang Theory”- CBS Thursday: nine o’clock) mistook them for a fallen comrade (because Ray-Bans have alien-eye shaped lenses… oh, now you get it) and effected a rescue.

Just as I was giving up on retrieving my sunglasses, up drives a Nissan Sentra and pulls to a stop. The sole occupant of the car exits and approaches, “Hey, do you know how to get to the nearest paved road from here?”

Cautious that this may be a test of my good character (I always expect that chance encounters with people of lower intelligence than mine are some kind of test), I assess the guy’s physical appearance and manner.  His speech betrayed him as a resident of one of those eastern states like New York or New Jersey where English is not part of the public school curriculum.  He was wearing a scooped neck t-shirt, sporting gold chains and completing his ensemble with loafers; definitely not a desert rat.  As I was still mentally occupied with the disappearance of my protective eye-wear, I decided to forego inquiries into the series of events that landed him in a rental car, in a wash, in the Southern California Desert.  Now, and for the rest of my life, I will regret passing up that opportunity.

“Well, let’s have a look at this map.”

He gave me a dubious look, “Oh. So you don’t know!

I lowered my voice a register or two, fixed his gaze with mine to re-establish the lost wanderer and Samaritan roles and emphasized, “I have a map!

I pointed out to him where we were on the map and indicated the Butte Canyon was the best choice.  I have to admit that the speed with which I was able to bowl him over with information was due to the fact I had just been asking myself the same question before he arrived. “Just make a turn here and follow this road.  In three miles, you will be at highway 78.”

“Will I be able to get this car through?”

“I’m not sure,” hoping to instill a little fear into his already exasperated state of mind. “But I’ll be right behind you if you get stuck.”

With that he bid me farewell and motored off in the direction I had indicated.  I decided to give him a bit of a head start and performed one more search for my sunglasses; no luck.

Giving up and noting how thankful I was it happened to be somewhat overcast, I followed the tread marks of our eastern explorer into Butte Canyon, which is true to its name.  I have to admit, like so many things in San Diego County, they are a mere shadow of what other locales offer. You wouldn’t travel to Utah and exclaim to the natives that, “Hey, we have buttes just like that where I come from!”  But for our understated little corner of the world, these buttes did nicely.

I eventually busted out of the canyon into the OHV rec area and down the slope to highway 78.  I did not encounter our foundering friend along the way so I will assume he made it out safe, or was waylaid by some errant prospector for the gold chains he was wearing.

From there it was an easy hop back to the campground and a shower.  I opted to drive back into Borrego Springs for dinner.  I chose Carlee’s, a combination restaurant and sports bar.  The Kentucky Wildcats were embarrassing the Ole Miss Runnin’ Rebels (like that’s a surprise) in the televised basketball game.  I had the Carlee Burger.  It was good.  Upon my return to the campground, I pulled out my fine toothed comb and did a circle search for my sunglasses.  It must have been while I was eating dinner, the Grays realized their mistake and returned my shades, leaving them under the gas tank (yes, the gas tank is under the passenger seat, inside the vehicle); clever little intergalactic travelers.

My Aching Butt

As day three dawned (literally), I decided I would try something less butt clenching than four-wheeling through my arch-nemesis, sand.  I had always wanted to drive around the east side of Salton Sea and being half-way there seemed to make it the perfect opportunity.

I opted to breakfast in town this morning and happened upon a family restaurant in the Denny’s motif, Kendall’s Café.  The bacon and cheese omelet was serviceable but not worth a special trip.  The fresh fruit in lieu of potatoes (I just can’t understand the attraction to a flavorless vegetable swimming in grease and salt) was very fresh and ripe (hello, Denny’s, are you listening?).  The English muffin was okay, but they hadn’t any boysenberry preserves.  How is one supposed to get seeds between their teeth if there is no boysenberry preserves?  What is one to do with ones tongue all day with no boysenberry seeds in ones teeth?  But I digress.

The route starts as it had on day two; S-22 east but now all the way to Salton City.  When I reached the Imperial County line, the road surface changed drastically to the worst paved, publicly maintained road I have as yet to be jostled by.  I was thinking of turning back and revisiting the horrors of Rockhouse Canyon.

Just as I was about to invoke the name of my dear sainted mother (bless her eternal soul), I reached the junction with CA-86 and turned north toward Mecca (California, not Saudi Arabia).  To get to the other side (does that make your inner chicken a bit nervous) you must travel north to head south.  If that makes no sense, look at a map (of California, preferably).  There was no reason to visit Salton City.  I have been there, twice (once under duress, thank you Frank) and that is two more times than anyone needs.  Unfortunately, Salton City is just an omen of what was to come.

A little bit south of Mecca, CA-86 intersects CA-111 (via a slight jog on CA -195) and curves around the northern end of Salton Sea.  To my disappointment, it was an overcast day in the desert rendering the surface of the sea indistinguishable from the sky.  Normally, Salton Sea is a shining blue gem in a taupe landscape.  There are a depressing number of failed, boarded up resort oriented businesses on the sea shore; marinas, resorts, camp grounds.  It seems the only thriving venture is that funded by the State of California as the Salton Sea Recreation Area in a series (I believe I counted three, but there could have been four… ugly is ugly and precision does not dilute the truth) of campgrounds; surprisingly somewhat occupied.

To my delight, running adjacent to the highway on the east, is a Union Pacific Rail line (my maps, and the bridge labeling indicate it is the Southern Pacific, but that entity was absorbed some years ago in one of the great evil mergers of all time… anything that reduces the number of storied rail lines is an evil merger) and I was pleased to encounter several trains sitting on the tracks as I plunged southward.  Eventually, the reason for the idle equipment became apparent as I encountered a series of work crews engaged in major rail rehabilitation.  It’s always amazing to see modern track laying machinery in action.  They have the appearance of giant insects.

Eventually I reached the community of Bombay Beach which is sited on bit of land that juts southward into the sea. I turned in to take a look.  There should be warning signs posted, “Caution, genetic testing in progress!  Enter at your own peril!”  I am sure in some distant time, someone had a plan, as the town is laid out in a traditional grid pattern.   But today, the only purpose one could imagine for Bombay Beach’s existence is as an archeological experiment to observe how a once mighty civilization crumbles. The population here has just given up!  As I meandered down the main street, I encountered the local tavern.  It seemed to be the only business in operation.  There was a couple in the parking lot and the woman waved at me.  She did not smile and I appreciated the courtesy as I am sure her tooth count would have been much lower than normal… things that make you say, “Brrrr!”  I cruised up and down a few of the residential streets.  I couldn’t tell who led in the dereliction count, burned out trailer homes or junked cars.  Even the fire station seemed to boast ownership of abandoned fire trucks. I had no reason to stop and make contact with the locals.

Back to the highway and on with my quest, I headed to the next metropolis on the map, Niland.  This gem of the desert is Bombay Beach maybe thirty years ago.  They had a tavern and a grocery store.  The houses were a bit better maintained at it appeared mine was not the only operational motor vehicle in town; maybe the only one with paint on it though.

At Niland, the highway turns straight south as the shoreline of the sea begins to arc into its southern extreme.  Land use turns agricultural.  I progressed southward to Caplatria then to Brawley.  My intent was to visit Calexico which is a border town with Mexico, the town of the other side of the border is named Mexicali; see the word play?  But by Brawley my ass was getting sore and my right ankle stiff from holding the accelerator pedal at a constant angle; the Land Cruiser has no cruise control.  But as with the best of plans, personal comfort outweighs goal achievement.  I stopped in Brawley at a Carl’s Junior and enjoyed a grilled chicken sandwich.  I know, there are those long time fans out there who are disappointed I didn’t sample some of the local Mexican fare.  But I am camping and my site is about two hundred yards from the nearest flush toilet.  I was taking precautions against disruption of my delicate gastrointestinal balance.  NO!  Nobody poops in the camper.  The tenets of polite society forbid I go into detail.

I topped off the tanks at a convenient gas station and away I went.  The course back to the campsite was pretty straight forward; CA-86, 78 north to the split, the CA-78 west.  The U.S. Border Patrol operates an inspection station at the split.  And true to form, the Agent was more interested in my unusual motor vehicle than he was concerned about the possible presence of any contraband. We had a short discussion which I am sure further exacerbated the line of drivers behind me.  Well, it sucks to be uninteresting!

Back at the camp, I cooked the remaining filet for dinner, but with green beans in the place of creamed corn.  It was delicious.  I built a fire in the fire ring and spent the evening staring at the flames, eating Girl Scout Cookies, drinking milk and pondering the nature of the universe and my place in it; sorry, giving you the answer would be cheating… you have to figure it out yourself.  But here’s a hint: Girls Scout Cookies grease the gears of philosophical wanderings.

Up, But Not Down

Morning, of course, started with breakfast.  Well, I showered first, then had breakfast.  On today’s menu was Italian Sausage and scrambled eggs. This time I managed to get the shredded cheese package open before I got my hands greasy.  You might say I’m a fast learner, or you might not.

After the dutiful cooking, eating and cleaning, I turned my attention to the day’s recreational possibilities.  As it was to be my last full day in the desert, I wanted to engage in something noteworthy without having to drive all day to achieve it.  Consulting my maps, I discovered that Coyote Canyon, a rather well-known off-road excursion, was only about two miles north of Borrego Springs.  I saddled up, and away I did ride.

The trail begins at the end of De Giorgio Road.  Coyote Canyon is a nature preserve for Big Horn sheep.  It is closed to the public during the hotter months of the year in order to make it Big Horn friendly as Coyote Creek is there only source of water during that period.

The track starts out easy enough with an excursion through a sandy bottom wash.  While flashbacks to Tuesday’s experience in Rockhouse Canyon stirred the butterflies in my stomach to life, I never encountered anything as soft and deep as that in which I had become stuck.  Along the way I encountered signs warning of the progressively rough nature of the road and recommendations that only fools in 4x4’s should attempt this.  I seemed as qualified as any.

I passed Desert Garden which is a quaint little picnic spot but after reading the interpretive signs explaining who had built it and why I was still none the wiser.  Then there was the historical marker neatly hidden in a bush and pointing in a way that travelers proceeding in either direction might miss it.  The focus was some dribble about de Anza and his exploration (or exploitation, if your sympathies lie with the locals), but I can look him up on the internet when I get home so why commit the details to memory.

Shortly thereafter, I encountered four crossings of Coyote Creek (as each was progressively sign posted; crossing 1, crossing 2, crossing 3, and of course, crossing 4).  The creek had considerable water in it as was flowing at a rippling pace.  This is significant, as one does not often encounter free flowing water in this desert.  The crossings were relatively shallow, just reaching the lower rim of my wheels.  I would imagine, that during a wetter year, these could become quite challenging crossings.

At about four miles in, I found the reason for the ominous warnings.  Ahead of me was a rock strewn hill with about a thirty degree ascent.  Well, this is why I bought the Toyota in the first place so here we go.  With your indulgence, I am going to get a bit geeky-technical on you now.  If I lose you, just skip ahead a few paragraphs to learn if I lived or died.

My Land Cruiser is somewhat modified.  I (and when I say I, I mean I wrote the checks to the guy who did the modifications… as any good Republican can tell you, talent and effort are important, but capital is king) replaced the original engine with a Chevy 350 V-8 and the transmission with a NV4500 five-speed manual.  The transmission features a compound low, or under-drive known in the vernacular as a granny gear.  When teamed with the Toyota transfer case, which offers a low range 4-wheel drive speed, it yields an almost unimaginable amount of climbing power to the wheels.  The result is; if you can get traction, you can climb it.  This capability came in very handy in conquering the terrain at hand.

Although the ascent was a bit uncomfortable from all of the bouncing, the Land Cruiser climbed the hill with ease; and the next one; and the next one.  There were three of these hills in quick succession.  By the time I reached the crest, I had a breathtaking view of Combs Peak (elev. 6193, putting it in the upper tier of San Diego County topographical features) and Bucksnort Mountain (Bucksnort; hee, hee, hee).  In the foreground below lay Sheep Canyon.  The canyon view offered several palm clustered oasis and was remarkably lush compared to the arid basin of which I had just driven out.

Most of the literature I have read on the subject of off-road exploration strongly suggest that the activity be pursued with at least two vehicles.  That way, one can lie back while the other test questionable conditions ahead.  If the lead vehicle fails to negotiate the terrain and becomes disabled or stuck, the occupants need only walk as far back as the waiting vehicle where a reasonable recovery plan can be developed and executed.  This wise approach was of no help to me on this particular day because, I was alone.

Before me lay a drop of equally severe vertical travel as I had just climbed.  I had no doubt with my vehicle’s ultra-low gearing I could safely navigate into the valley.  But I was unsure of the nature of the road surface and from my vantage point, it looked pretty sandy.  I did not have the confidence that once in the basin, I could climb my way out.  And of what I had read of this trek, it was a dead-end route: One way in, turn around, same way out.

So there I was, standing on the precipice both literally and philosophically.  Did I revert to my usual immature mind set and throw caution to the wind?  Or should I let less passionate reason prevail and quit while I was ahead?  Age and experience combined to yield a recipe of caution on this day and I turned back to Borrego, saving the promise of this experience for a future day when better equipped for the challenge.

On the way out I encountered a party of elderly folk (yes, older even than I) inbound driving a Honda Element.  They were idling as one of their party was examining something of interest at the side of the road.  I stopped and inquired of the driver if she had driven this road before.  She had not.  I generously, but with a bit of authority born of experience, suggested that she turn around at the next water crossing as her vehicle would not survive the rigors of the route beyond that point.  She thanked me for my kind advice, stating that she had hoped that they would get lucky and that her car was equipped with all-wheel-drive.  I pointed out the difference between her ground clearance and mine.  I opined on the subject of street tires vs. off-road tires.  I believe I sold her on the finer points of life or death in the desert, but I did not wait to observe her behavior.  On the last leg out of the canyon, I was passed by a party of two Jeeps headed in (gee, I wish I had friends) and was certain they would be able to render assistance if necessary.

Upon my reentry to Borrego Springs, I dedicated my efforts tracking down a merchant offering ice cream comestibles.  I found a quaint shop whose signage promised milk shakes.  I opted for the chocolate malt and my craving was well serviced.  Later that evening, the days repast was completed with carnitas and margaritas at Carmellita’s Mexican Bar and Grill.  Then back to the campground, where I found I was too full and mellow for writing, so I burned up the rest of firewood, searching for the meaning of everything.

Home Again, Home Again, Jiggity Jig

And so, it has finally arrived; the day of departure.  Up with the sun, I busily cleaned up the camp, packed my accoutrements and readied the equipment.  As it was only about eight o’clock and check-out wasn’t until noon, I decided to give Kendall’s another shot.

Perhaps because it was Friday, they were a bit busier than during my previous visit.  This time I opted for scrambled eggs and the buffalo patty.  Buffalo, if you have not experienced it, is about thirty-percent leaner than beef.  And although I have experienced it several times, I always forget that it seems a bit dry and uninteresting about half way through.  Well, the fresh fruit was a pleasant repeat of Wednesday’s experience.  Oh, and I opted for the pancakes since I knew they had no boysenberry preserves; no teeth sucking today!

I returned to the campground, fired up the GMC and made my way to the sanitary dump station.  Sorry to disappoint, but I have reduced this process to a science so you will read no horror stories about toxic spills from me.  I returned to the campsite, hooked up the Land Cruiser and away I went.

As advertised in day one, I opted for the shorter route and hauled my rig up the hair pin curves of Montezuma Grade (S-22).  Traffic was light, the weather was favorable, I rolled into the driveway about noon; no drama.

I am sure there are some morals buried somewhere in this experience.  But for now, thus endeth the saga of the Anza-Borrego 2014 adventure.




Wednesday, September 18, 2013

Nevada 2013

Care to Try Your Luck? 

It has been a while, but I finally made it to the road again.  This is really a courtesy trip rather than one of the grand explorations in which I generally engage.  “What is a courtesy trip?” you ask.  It is one targeted to meet family expectations.  Oh no, not my family; if they moved somewhere they’d probably hire an elite security firm to keep it a secret.
This journey was in response to a recent move by Frank’s sister Judy and her husband Al. For those of you new to my travels, Frank is my best friend (low standards?) and frequent travel companion.  Now normally the responsibility to accompany Frank on such a junket would fall to his lovely bride, Michele.  But she had conveniently scheduled a river cruise in Russia with some of her female traveling buddies.  I’m not sure how she divined a year in advance just which week this trip to Sin City would occur, but I’ve got to admit she has a gift.
So, to visit Al and Judy in their new digs, we saddled up and away we went.  Hopefully you have reasoned by this time that the destination city is Las Vegas, Nevada.  Now normally when I write about Las Vegas, it is the first Las Vegas, Las Vegas, New Mexico; not this Johnny-come-lately refuge for the overfed and under brained.  If your sensory cells are working, you may detect a bit of displeasure with this sparkling jewel of the desert.
Well, it’s not the city, it’s me.  I don’t gamble.  I’ve reduced my alcohol intake to maybe one cocktail per month.  I’m too old and wise to interpret the attentions of a stripper as anything but the sales pitch it is.  In short, there is nothing there for me except the roller coasters and I’ve ridden them all.
So why am I writing this travel (b)log if there is nothing write about?  Because when Frank and I get together, there is always something to write about.  We are characters in the comedy of life.  And truth be told, if you look hard enough, you can always find something of interest.
One of the necessities of a road trip (I don’t fly) to Vegas is the epicurean visit to Baker, CA.  Unfortunately, the Bob’s Big Boy, nee Bun Boy (you just insert whatever immature little comment pops into your own deviant mind… I’m not sayin’ nuttin’) has closed.  We passed on The Mad Greek.  Our only other option was fast food so we settled for the filling station/convenience store/multi-pack restaurant that among its offerings included an A&W Root Beer stand.  The burgers were unremarkable but they made their root beer freezes with hand dipped real vanilla ice cream.  Not even back in the 1970s when I worked in an A&W Root Beer stand did we use hand dipped real vanilla ice cream in our root beer freezes.  We used the de rigueur soft serve.  This was a treat and may elevate Baker to the destination category.

Dam, that’s Big

If you have any sense of history, you will probably have guessed from the sub-title of this section that we made a day trip to Hoover Dam (originally, Boulder Dam). Surprisingly, I had never taken the opportunity to pursue this bit of history.  I know, it’s not like anybody famous shot anybody infamous here, but a lot of people died during the construction of this edifice to government control over the natural environment and the company I ended my business career with (J.F. Shea Co., Inc.) was a major player in the project. They carved out the diversion tunnels that rerouted the Colorado River allowing the dam to be built.
As big as the dam is, it does not present as an impressive a sight as the pictures with which we are all familiar.  I guess it is a matter of perspective. As we approached the visitors’ center, we were advised and re-advised that it was a security area and all bags and people would be X-rayed and magnetometered in the name of homeland security.  Frank returned to the car to unburden himself of his metal detector averse accoutrements and Judy and I (Al was somewhere playing tennis) proceeded to the visitor center screening area.  In response to my placing a wad of cash in the metal bucket the guard advised me I needn’t have my money X-rayed.  I unfolded the bills to show him that there was a metal money clip inside.  He asked the obvious question “Is that a knife?”  I responded in the affirmative triggering the admonition that I could not take a knife into the center or on the tour.  Now in my mind, because I know better than to argue with a cranky septuagenarian toting a pistol, I thought, “Now do you really think I’m going to be able to use an inch and three-quarters blade to highjack this concrete monstrosity (I don’t know how much concrete, because I was not allowed into the visitor’s center) and fly it into a building?”  I silently picked up my money clip and left the security station.  Our party agreed it would not be worth our time to walk back to the car for the purpose of storing my knife/money clip.  We walked across the dam, I took some pictures of some South Africans when they asked, and retreated to the snack bar for some refreshing drinks.  We left the dam, returned to Las Vegas and met Al, who by this time had completed his tennis endeavors, for a buffet lunch at the Orleans.  It was a good buffet lunch, as buffet lunches go, but it was not Mexican food in Las Vegas, New Mexico.

Them Rocks is Red

Day two put us on the trail to Red Rock Canyon. We (once again, Frank, Judy and I… Al apparently plays a lot of tennis) started the day off by breaking fast at some casino the name of which I do not remember.  I had chicken-fried steak and eggs.  The gravy was good.  We then proceeded a short distance west to Red Rock Canyon National Conservation Area (BLM). In this case, BLM stands for Bureau of Land Management, not Black Lives Matter. I am obliged to share that my barber had suggested this visit.  Her advice was useful as this is a stunning visual location.
There are many facets to this gem of the desert, but in truth it is all about the geology. The feature has been part of the planetary evolution for right around 600 million years, give or take a millennium.  It was part of the shallow sea that covered what is now the western part of the North American Continent.  After about 375 million years, tectonic movement (look it up…) caused the sea bed to rise. The area was converted into a swamp where exposure to the atmosphere allowed minerals to oxidize and voila, red rocks!
The story continues, but I don’t want to turn this into a science lecture.  Well, okay, I do, but in an effort to retain the few readers I have left, I will cease and desist.  If you are interested, you can visit the BLM’s Red Rock National Conservation Area website.
The park is easy to get to.  Located on Charleston Boulevard (SR-159), it is seventeen miles due west of the Las Vegas Strip.  The park offers a thirteen mile scenic drive and thirty miles of hiking trails.
As a special treat, the timing of our visit allowed us to witness the local police helicopter performing practice stranded hiker rescues from various ledges (…make you home sick, Nick?) by hovering next to a rock outcropping while the rescue subject stepped onto the skid.After our self-guided (okay, we just followed the road) tour, Judy asked us to return her home because she had things to do.  This of course was code for, “I’m done listening to your inane chatter; I need the company of sane adults!”  We dropped her home and went in search of the Holy Grail of all road trips, the perfect gun store.
We found one neighborhood gun store, newly opened.  But their stock was not particularly impressive. There was a big-box sports outlet that offered a staggering inventory. Alas, it was all stock-in-trade stuff like Glocks and Sigs and Springfield Armory current generation wallet busters; not a vintage Smith & Wesson or Colt to be found.  Finally, we located a shop that boasted the availability of machine guns that could be shot at their on-premises range.  We observed some under talented shooters for a while but opted not to spend the exorbitant price to do something we had done before.  It seems that Las Vegas gun shops target the tourist more than they do the serious gun aficionado.  We cut our losses, searched out a Dairy Queen and took advantage of the buy one, get one for $0.99 promotion on Blizzards.

 There’s Always One Last Thing to See

The following morning we departed Las Vegas en route the Hinkle’s bourgeois Palm Desert resort condo.  Sometimes, in the proper light, I can see the validity of the French Revolution.  We opted to retreat from the city of a thousand vices via highway US-95 (the old road to Vegas) to avoid the boredom of I-15.  About ten miles south of Henderson, we turned off the highway for a side trip to Nelson, Nevada.
This mining area was originally called Eldorado by the Spanish who discovered gold in 1775.  Today, the area is known as Eldorado Canyon and Nelson is a town of mobile homes and ramshackle inhabited by modern day prospectors.  The real find is the Techatticup Mine ruins that lay just a bit farther down the road. Someone inhabits the buildings there but didn’t seem too interested in making contact although seemed in no way offended by our snooping around and picture taking.

The mines were active from about 1858 until 1945.  A historical placard out front of the main collection of timber sided building (this is the desert folks, they will last forever) informs visitors that many of the original miners were deserters from the Civil War.  Apparently the mining operations were hampered by frequent waves of violence but none the less produced about seven million dollars.
Supplies for the operation were delivered via steam boats on the Colorado River originating from the Gulf of California.  Before the twentieth century invasion of damn dam builders and agricultural water piracy, the river was quite navigable.  In 1974, a flash flood in Eldorado Canyon washed away a modern recreational marina and destroyed the remnants of the shipping wharf.  As you drive along the canyon today, the mine adits and ventilation shaft openings can be seen along the walls. We eventually reached the end of the canyon road (which to our surprise was nicely paved all the way) arriving at the Colorado River. We hurled some insults across at Arizona but as usual, no one seemed to be home.  Likely, they were all in San Diego trying to escape the desert heat.  Heh, heh... we fooled ‘em this year.  Stupid ‘zonies?
After slaking our cerebral thirst for all things historic, we retraced our route back to US-95 and proceeded to Searchlight, Nevada.  Searchlight is famous for two things: One of them being the home town of Harry Reid, current majority leader of the U.S. Senate and buffoon extraordinaire.  Come on now, even if you are a Democrat you have to admit that this oompah-loompah is a joke in a poorly tailored suit.  The second wonder of Searchlight is a newly opened Mexican food restaurant the name of which escapes me because I disposed of the receipt against all advice from Frank for the purpose of reporting it here in this narrative. (Sometimes, I like to insert an unnecessarily long and complex sentence just to see what Word’s grammar filter will let me get away with.)  Surprisingly, the food was very good.  They passed the carne asada test, which is a rarity outside of Southern California.
From Searchlight it is a long and tedious, featureless drive to the interchange with I-10 for the last leg to Palm Desert.  One last feature of note is the remnants of the town of Vidal, California (not to be mistaken for Vidal Jct., CA).  This unincorporated town site is infamous for being the home to Solar Lodge, a secret society.  I will let you research the cause of its sinister reputation and leave you with this tease.  In the 1960s, several members were arrested for child abuse in a case known as “The Boy in the Box”.
 However, the reason I include Vidal in this memoir, is its connection to Wyatt Earp.  It seems that late in his life, he and common law wife Josephine Sarah Marcus (no ladies, not that Marcus) wintered in Vidal while the ex-lawman worked copper and gold mining claims he had established in the area. If you don’t know who Wyatt Earp is or why he is important, there are several books available on the subject of his life.  Or, if you want the two hour version, there are many movies.  The best, in my humble opinion, is Tombstone (1993, Hollywood Pictures).  At all costs, avoid Gunfight at the O.K. Corral (1957, Paramount Pictures)!
Today, there is little left but some mobile homes and one standing rock building.  It was kind of fitting that a trip begun with a visit to a city that is all smoke and mirrors ends with a stop, well actually a roll-trough, of a town where even the ghosts have given up.