Yellowstone 2018-8

Up and Over

Have you ever been to Jackson, Wyoming?  Pretty impressive, huh?  I have been there once before and continue to be in awe at the stark, ragged, granite spectacle that is the Grand Tetons.  You will instantly recognize the scene that follows, even if you have only witnessed the forbidding wall on television or in a photograph.

 

Backside of the Grand Tetons

From Idaho Falls there are several ways to get over or around the big titties and into Jackson Hole (A niggling point of geographic correctness is due here: Jackson Hole is a geological feature, a depression among mountain ranges that serves as the headwaters of several rivers.  Jackson is a town in Wyoming, located within Jackson Hole.  If you wish to reinforce the locals’ notion that all flatlanders are idiots, you go right ahead and refer to Jackson as Jackson Hole.  The merchants there really don’t care as long as you buy the overpriced gewgaws that support their community.) I have oft wondered at the nature of the backside (the western slope) of the Grand Tetons so I chose the route that put me right through the grinder.

Wilson, Wyoming

I left Idaho Falls via U.S. 26 to Swan Valley.  I then turned northeast on SR-31 to Victor where I changed course to SR-22 (I am not sure where the state line is, but the highway begins in Idaho and ends in Wyoming).  At the bottom of the pass (unnamed on my maps) you enter the Wyoming town of Wilson.  This is a winter resort area well placed for jittery drivers to recollect their wits after crossing one of the most challenging passes I can recall… and I’ve crossed a bunch of them.  I spoke with a trio of locals out front of the general store and learned that two of them were among the original founders of the settlement.

State Route 22 continued into Jackson where I was surprised to find the town full.  There was nary a parking spot in the town and the sidewalks were teeming with tourists.  To say the least I was surprised as it seemed too late for skiing and too early for mountaineering.  I headed north into Grand Teton Nat’l Park which seems to be merely an adjunct to Yellowstone.  There are great views of the namesake mountains and both parks are included in the entrance fee so, why not?

My original plans for accommodations were to stay at one of the myriad private motels that cluster just outside the entrance to any National Park.  Think again pathfinder!  The nearest commercial inns are in Jackson, about fifty-miles away (and previous observation suggested they were full).  At this point I was in Grand Teton Nat’l Park and decided to take a whirl at the in-park accommodations.  I pulled into the first village I encountered. Inside the lodge I was greeted by a perky clerk who enthusiastically informed me that Grand Teton lodging facilities were not yet accommodating guests.  I ask her if she could check availability of rooms in Yellowstone.  With a hint of glee in her voice she informed me that the lodging concession in Yellowstone was contracted by another company and their reservation systems did not communicate with each other (It seems that news of the internet success of Priceline et al had not reached the wilderness of Wyoming) and I would have to communicate with the other Park.  Her obvious self-satisfaction at having artfully dodged any effort to serve her customer while being cheerful and engaging was clear evidence she was a top-tier graduate of her employer’s customer satisfaction training curriculum.  With a warm heart I bid her adieu and thanked her for her efforts, I think.

Shortly thereafter I crossed into Yellowstone Nat’l Park and stopped at the first settlement I encountered, Grant Village.  It was obviously yet in the seasonal prep stage.  This convinced me to take more direct action. I called the Yellowstone reservations center while sitting in the vacant parking lot.  I was very lucky to make contact with Naomi who, with no indication of condescension in her demeanor was able to book me into a Lake Village cottage for one night.  I asked her if she could expand that to two nights but she unable to find anything.  That was okay.  I had my foot in the door.  If anyone could cajole a desk clerk into helping out a wayward traveler, it was I.